News from Norfolk

Golden Square

Sam only needed a few photos. He kept repeating this point. “They don’t even have to be good photos! This isn’t some school competition. But the publisher told me I have space for two more photos, and so I want two more photos. I’m greedy like that.”

“Surely you could just find something online?”

“No, I can’t just find something online, Olly! If the pictures were legit, I’d have to pay for them, and if they weren’t legit — well, you know me — I’d end up with some AI-generated slop that turned out to be a photograph of some random square in Iowa or Prague, with a statue of Generalissimo Franco imposed on it, probably with six fingers on each hand, and as much as I’d love some publicity for my book, that isn’t the strategy I’d choose, truth be told. Is it really that hard to take a few phone photos of Golden Square?”

As much as I hated to admit it, because younger brothers should never be encouraged in that way, Sam had a point. I was in London — he was in Scotland. It would not be difficult to swing past Golden Square on my way home from a Saturday morning spent in the office. It would certainly not be difficult to take a few phone photos and email them to him. Heaven knows, after the decades he’d endured, struggling away in variously underfunded and demoralised history faculties, we all knew how proud Sam was to have finished his first “proper” book, soon to be published by that rare thing, a still-prestigious university press. In short, I had no choice, really, but to agree to what he’d asked me to do.

And yet as I made my way through the raucous, charmless, just-under-control anarchy of Oxford Circus down into Soho, it became increasingly clear to me why I hadn’t returned to Golden Square since the late 1980s.

Everything had changed. In London, or at least the West End, this goes without saying. While the Soho I had known had hardly been that of de Quincey or Dickens, it had, at least, been recognisably that of Patrick Hamilton, Francis Bacon and all those Colony Room people, a place still somehow a bit grubby and tired from the long-ago war, its dank courts and alleyways haunted by a fug of stale cigarette smoke, cheap spirits and thwarted ambition.

Now, though, making my way through it purposefully, briskly, with what I hoped was an air of incurious objectivity — a tourist visiting, without any great interest, famous landmarks from my own distant past — I noted all the bright new shopfronts, smart cafés and bars, breezy culinary evocations of Brazil or Hawaii or Korea. Where there was graffiti, succinct and enigmatic, it was impossible to tell whether the gesture was one of rebellion or, rather, some form of sanctioned civic enrichment. Had it not been for the occasional stench of piss, the odd lurching junkie, I’d hardly have recognised the old place, so glossy and impersonal was its new surface. I found this reassuring.

There were two points, though, that I’d forgotten to take into account. First, because this was a day in late October, even though it was still mid afternoon, the light was already starting to slip away a little. I’d have to hurry to take those photos. Secondly, as I should really have remembered — although now the twins are grown up it’s less of a big deal — the day was, in fact, Hallowe’en.

Hallowe’en became, once I’d noticed it, increasingly hard to miss. Most of the restaurants and bars had been decorated, more or less tastefully, for the occasion. All possible surfaces were decked with garlands of tangerine paper jack-o’-lanterns, saw-toothed silhouettes of huge black cats with glowing eyes, skulls and candles, mocked-up mossy funerary slabs.

More to the point, though, many in the Saturday crowds that surged around me were in costume. Here, again, the level of commitment varied. A hen party stumbled past, unsteady and hilarious, all wearing witches’ hats — and, it would seem, very little else. Youths in black hoodies, tearing through on their bikes, had swapped balaclavas for far more evocative paper “scream” masks.

Most impressive, though, were the revenants and zombies. Most were solitary although sometimes they, too, travelled in groups. Festering sores, plague buboes, gently luminescent rotting flesh — making my way down Kingly Street, all of this was everywhere around me, to the extent that after a minute or two, human nature being what it is, I largely ceased to notice it.

This would all work best, I knew, if I could force myself to focus on the task at hand. It was better not to think too much. Instead, I concentrated on taking a few quick photos of the south end of Kingly Street, which Sam had requested.

The light that afternoon was being very kind to me. London, a city of lime-white, green and black, often looks its best in October, when the changing leaves offer the odd splash of old-gold or coppery-red counterpoint. This was one of those mid autumn days when the fast-scudding clouds meant that light effects altered with every minute, sometimes every second. I resolved to snap what I could, carelessly, in the way that a bad photographer might, hoping that something would, despite the mess I had made of it, work out.

And, certainly, Golden Square looked wonderful in that last blaze of afternoon sunshine. Of course it, too, had changed. I noted this with a degree of conscious relief. Why had I thought that, more than three decades on, a very ordinary London square would still have the power to hurt me? No, the place I had dreaded seeing again was gone — well, nearly gone — transformed by a few new buildings, cleaner façades, sparklingly clear glass, present-day cars — present-day people in their present-day clothes who neither knew nor cared what might or might not have happened there, long before half of them were even born.

No, it was only in the bones of the place — the proportions, the width of the streets, the plane trees, that strangely uninviting seating area at its centre — that any tactless hint of the past still remained. Well, that and some of the buildings: a tiny handful of Georgian survivors, the old Dormeuil building (much renovated), and then across the square, the back of Warwick Street Chapel. The building I least wanted to see had, thankfully, been demolished and wholly rebuilt.

I steadied my breathing. I waited for a moment until the thumping of my heart was no longer louder than the crowds shoving past all around me. It was better not to think too much. I needed to take some photos. Once I’d done that, then I could leave.

Did you know that I used to be quite a good photographer? That was the point of Sam’s reference to school prizes — I used to win them all the time — at Oxford, too. There was even a point where I thought, briefly, that I might be able to make a career in conflict photojournalism — until I met a few of war photographers, and realised the toll that kind of work exacts.

These days, anyway, all my old cameras, light meters and extortionately expensive lenses are packed away in a box, under the twins’ baby toys, Annie’s old scripts and theatre stuff, and the other useless rubbish we always say we should sort through and probably sell or bin — although, of course, we never do.

Sam had told me a little about which parts of Golden Square he wanted me to photograph. Again, the light was kind to me. Although the clouds, restless and unreliable, occasionally veiled the street scene with a sulky kind of shadow, they were quick to lift away the veil again, so that what was left of the sunshine could pick out every hint of texture or articulation with a magnificent, almost hallucinogenic clarity.

For a while, I took my photos from the pavement surrounding the central square. Next, I decided to shoot from within the square itself. The sun was catching the edges of the leaves of some of the plane trees, setting them alight with what I knew would be a very short-lived ardour. Golden Square indeed!

I was concentrating, as you can see, on my photos and on my phone. I was doing this very consciously. It was better not to think too much. As long as I focused on the project at hand, it would all be all right.

It took me a while, then, to realise that there was a woman seated on the bench, next to where I was standing. I had honestly thought there was no one at all in the square. Yet there she was — only a few feet distant from me. I remember noting, right away, one odd thing about her, which is that she wasn’t looking, as a normal person would do, into a mobile phone.

Instead, the woman was staring at me. That, too, was slightly odd. Her look was hard to read, because while she was looking at me very intensely, there was nothing aggressive or challenging about her — just a deep curiosity, with something strangely innocent about it.

I suppose I had better describe her. She must have been about forty years old, but it was hard to tell. She had clearly lived a hard life. Like so many on the streets that evening, she was dressed and made up for Hallowe’en — yet with a bit more subtlety than many, because rather than being covered with cosmetic sores and so forth, hers was only a gently greenish pallor, a bit of shading so that her eyes and cheeks looked only slightly sunken, her lips only slightly blue.

She must, once, have been very beautiful. She carried herself as if she were used to being admired, and I have to admit that there was, even in the ruins of that beauty, something weirdly compelling. Her eyes, meeting mine directly, seemed to say quite a few contrasting things all at once — conveying a kind of rueful amusement, a companionable openness, a resolute cheerfulness hiding something else in its shadow.

She was dressed, as many were that night, in a miscellaneous agglomeration of vintage fashion — I recall, variously, lace, gold brocade and some rather elaborate, fake-looking jewellery — all a bit grubby and worn. She carried with her a sort of large bag, almost like a rucksack, made of gold brocade, again a bit worn and dingy, tied at the top with a velvet ribbon.

“A fine evening, is it not?” she asked me. Her accent, again, was hard to place. It certainly wasn’t from London. What it recalled to me, more than anything, was an accent one doesn’t hear any more, but that still used to surface occasionally around Oxford back in the 1980s — a real West Country burr, although there was something more to it than that.

“Yes, it’s a beautiful evening,” I replied.

I could have left right then, because I had already taken all the pictures that I needed. Sam would be pleased, I knew. And yet I also knew, because of the way in which the clouds were banking up, that if I waited just a few minutes longer, there was the chance of the kind of sunset that would cast a last burst of red-gold light across everything, and that the result, if I could catch it, would be pure magic.

At this point, I don’t think I was even trying to take a photo for Sam. No, in attempting to take these photos, something had woken up in me — that raw hunter-gatherer impulse, to go out and bag the best photo humanly possible, whatever the cost. Isn’t it curious that, in English, instead of “making” photos, we “take” them — with that definite sense of predator and prey? I have often wondered why that is the case. In any event, it expresses something real.

For that reason, anyway, I was in no particular hurry to leave. Nor did this woman concern me. True, I found it hard to place her in one of those lazy categories that circumscribe and organise urban life. Which is to say, although I thought she might perhaps have been drinking, she didn’t seem to me to be a rough sleeper, and although she was quick to strike up a conversation, she somehow didn’t seem to me to be a whore, either.

If anyone had asked me, I suppose I would have guessed, in all innocence, that she was a Saturday afternoon reveller, come up to the West End to enjoy herself, waiting at this designated meeting place for the arrival of a slightly-delayed friend.

I sat down on the bench, and started looking at the photos I had already taken. I was quite pleased with them. But when I turned back to the woman, she was still staring at me. Again, there was nothing threatening in her look — I did not, for instance, think she was going to steal my phone. Instead, there was only a sort of gentle bemusement.

“It’s busy here tonight, isn’t it?” I said, if only because it seemed I ought to say something.

“It is. But then it’s always busy on this night. That’s always been the way of it.”

“There are certainly some excellent costumes,” I opined.

“Ah, yes,” the woman replied. “But then, there’s no lack of fine ladies and gentlemen hereabouts. This is a fine square, and it always were.” She looked around complacently. And then she laughed, with a funny sort of anxious trill. “Not just walking about, neither!”

I must have looked a bit blank, because she then elaborated on her previous comment.

“Under the earth, I mean, darling. Under this earth. Or did you not know? This place were once a plague pit, and they never took up the dead, neither, but just set this square over them, because there be no one who wanted their house built on the houses of the dead.”

***

As it happened, I knew that Golden Square was built on a plague pit.

Back in the late 1980s, when I worked in Golden Square, we used to joke about it all the time. Only Cara didn’t think it was at all funny. I suppose it’s because she came from a place where epidemic diseases and mass mortality events weren’t entirely a thing of the past. She’s just cross herself, and sometimes tell us that we shouldn’t laugh about that kind of thing — which, of course, because we were young and very stupid, made us do it all the more.

Did you know that I had a year in London, between my undergraduate degree and all the military stuff? Well, I did. I was working for a tiny think tank — you wouldn’t have heard of it; it hasn’t existed for decades now — on a one-year internship programme. Its office was in Golden Square. The main skill I took away from the experience was the ability to pretend, in front of people who knew a huge amount about a given subject area, that I, too, knew a great deal about it, possibly even more than they did. This ability has served me extremely well over the years, and I am grateful for it.

There were perhaps a dozen of us in the office, plus a few distinguished elderly people who dropped in from time to time, chiefly before or after lunch at their various London clubs. I cannot pretend that we didn’t enjoy ourselves. We were young — the same age as the twins are! now, there’s a thought — and, what’s more, we benefitted fully from that absolute clarity of vision that stems from being at the start of our lives, having just come down from Oxford, knowing more about everything than anyone else had ever known before, and all set, in a leisurely way, to assume our rightful places as world-historical figures.

And that, of course, is how I met Cara. She, too, had been awarded a one-year internship. She was pretty — not remarkably so, it must be said — but sweet-natured, modest and gentle. Having come to the UK from somewhere else, she must have been able to see through so much of our tiresome, laddish, loutish bravado — and yet her reaction was generally one of bemused, affectionate tolerance.

Cara was, other than two elderly, no-nonsense, wholly terrifying secretaries, the only female in the building. It was inevitable, I suppose, the 1980s being what they were, that she’d end up with one of us, and I cannot deny that there was more than a hint of competitive spirit in our various attempts to befriend her — nor, indeed, that I was rather pleased, albeit for purely competitive reasons, when she ended up, for a few months, partnered with me.

We were young, and I was very stupid. My experiences with women up to that point had been few, inglorious and almost invariably embarrassing.

Yet there was a time when Cara and I were, in some sense, very happy together. Golden Square, cold and wet and squalid, became our own little garden of Eden. We’d sit out on a damp, cold bench — a bench, let us remember, set over a vast 17th century plague pit — under the dripping plane trees, surrounded by drunks and rough sleepers, and talk for hours and hours.

Cara’s English was terrible, by the way, but at that point it didn’t really matter. When I had money, we’d go for a drink in a nearby pub, back in the days when the white wine that she preferred was sold unbranded, poured from a slightly dusty bottle kept corked in some cosy corner, tucked away behind the array of spirits. She pretended not to mind. Under the cover of darkness, we’d kiss in sordid alleys, with bags of rubbish piled up around us, or round the backs of now-demolished buildings, catching odd views of the intricate geometry of fire exits soaring above us, or the occasional frightened rat. Cara had beautiful eyelashes, a soft neck and magnificently warm little hands. Her absolute seriousness was, oddly, no small part of her charm.

My garden of Eden metaphor, though, implies the existence of a serpent. We met ours, ironically enough, at the Warwick Street Chapel, also in Golden Square.

It must have been raining that day, hence our desire to find some place near the office where we could sit, perhaps talk a little, but mostly just be alone together, even for the length of an admittedly 1980s-style lunch hour.

We had visited the chapel before. Do you know it? You should definitely call in next time you are passing! By the standards of functioning Roman Catholic churches in this country, it’s very old — it started out as the chapel for the Portuguese embassy back in the early 1700s. It’s rather beautiful, too, if you like that sort of thing — gold-ground mosaics, incense, the light of guttering candles. Anyway, sometimes Cara and I would go inside and sit together, holding hands. Because she was a devout Roman Catholic, she positively refused to let me kiss her there, even if there was clearly no one about at all.

Well, we had sat together, heads on each other’s shoulders, talking nonsense, or simply enjoying the silence — and then, when it was late enough that we really did have to go back to the office, we rose to leave. It was only then that, rather shyly and in her signature terrible English, Cara suggested that perhaps our wedding, when it happened, ought to take place there.

Well, the whole thing was impossible. Cara, as I have said, was pretty — pretty enough, if not remarkably so — but her prettiness was the sort that depended on youth, a degree of freshness and limited alternatives. Her English really was woefully, painfully bad. Physical attraction aside, we had very little in common. I knew, by that point, that I wanted a military career, complete with plenty of travel and adventure. More to the point, however, I knew that there was literally no way that I could possibly ever marry Cara. I did not want to spend my life with her. With all the boundless wisdom of my 22 years, I attributed this difference of perspective to Cara’s unworldliness, her lack of sophistication, perhaps even her lesser intelligence.

So as we stepped out into the rain, walking round to a very grey Golden Square, a chill fell over us that would never, thereafter, really be dispelled. It was as if we could hear the gates of paradise slamming shut behind us.

Later there were tears, recriminations, rows conducted on those benches to the vague amusement of passing strangers, a half-hearted reconciliation or two that never lasted very long — and after that, what? In truth, I cannot really remember, so thoroughly did I blot the whole thing out of my memory. I cannot remember the last time we spoke, or saw each other. We never, as far as I can remember, actually said goodbye.

And then, a few years later, came Annie, and the twins, and all that. So I’ve really been very lucky, haven’t I? It’s all worked out very well.

No, I never really stopped to think about what happened to Cara, after Golden Square. I suppose she must have gone back to her own country. I am sure she met someone who was right for her. I hope that’s what happened.

We called her Cara, but her real first name was slightly different — and her surname is a very common one, at least in her country, and of course if she’s married, she’d have a different surname now anyway.

What’s the point of thinking about the past? Often, very often, it’s better not to think too much — far better just to get on with the job at hand.

***

“Are you quite well, my darling?” asked the woman. She had moved closer to me on the bench. Again, though, I felt no alarm. She smelled of old-fashioned scent, camphor and cheap sherry.

“Sorry,” I said, sitting up straight again. “I’ve had a bit of a cold. I’m just getting over it.”

“I’m cold, too,” said the woman, reflectively. “I been cold for a long time. For a long time, that’s been the way of it.”

I shook myself a little. The clouds were still gathering and there was still quite a lot of light about. I still wanted my photos.

“Are you waiting for someone?” I asked, just to make conversation.

“Oh, yes, that I am,” said the woman. “Only he’s a long time in coming. He promised he’d come back, but that’s the thing — he’s a long time in coming. All the same, I don’t believe that he would just leave me here. Not after everything we been through.”

“I’m sure you’re right,” I said, emolliently. “Something’s probably just held him up. I’m sure he’ll be along before too long.”

“Men be easily distracted,” reflected the woman, without rancour. “He were always easily distracted, my Robert was.”

“That’s true,” I agreed, with a sympathetic smile. “There are plenty of distractions! Well, hopefully he’ll be along soon.”

The light was beginning to change. Almost imperceptibly, dressed stone walls that had, just a moment before, appeared an unremarkable grey, suddenly blushed red. So did the crowds that were still ebbing and flowing in front of them. It was as if the colour were coming from within the stone itself. Reflected light gave everything in the square a strange sort of glow. This was the moment. I rose to take a few photos. I fiddled with the settings on my phone camera. I focused on the job at hand. I moved around a bit, so that the leaves on the trees would frame the buildings in a more attractive, consciously-constructed way. But then I felt something pulling at my jacket. Crossly, I brushed it away — and then did so again.

The light was truly extraordinary — positively unearthly. I cursed myself for not having brought a better camera with me. Also, I cursed whoever it was who kept tugging at my jacket, brushing up against me, jostling me. I can’t explain this well, but there was something repulsively needy about that tugging, that increasingly enraged me. I wanted, not only to fight free of it, but to make sure it never happened again.

Yet when I turned around to remonstrate with the woman — because, of course, I had assumed that she was the one who was doing it — she was just sitting on the bench, a couple of yards distant, watching me, still with that curious, oddly innocent look on her greenish-grey face.

And then the light failed — suddenly, as that sort of evening light always does. The fire had turned to ash. Equally suddenly, I realised that I actually felt really unwell. That weird jostling, surely, was just some species of dizziness? My heartbeat roared in my ears, louder than the crowds on the pavements opposite — for the square itself was, for whatever reason, still quite remarkably empty.

Staggering slightly, I made it as far as the bench. I sat down again.

The woman, paler than ever now that the sky was no longer red, looked curiously at me. I think she wanted to comfort me. Then she spoke. “There, my darling, the one you are waiting for — she’ll be along soon. I know she’s been a long time coming, but she’s almost here now.”

In vain did I protest that I wasn’t waiting for anyone, that I hadn’t been waiting for anyone at all. The woman simply looked at me. In the gathering dusk it was harder to see her face, to gauge her expression. I found myself shouting at her, insisting that I wasn’t waiting, that I really wasn’t waiting for anyone. But now there were tears running down my cheeks, tears dampening my hands as I tried, blindly and helplessly, to brush them away.

“There, there, my darling,” the woman said, in that odd West Country burr. “Never you mind. Never you mind your Lizzy! Robert always tells me I’m full of foolishness. Robert’s a long time in coming, but he’ll come for me, that I know. He doesn’t have it in him just to leave me, after everything we been through. Don’t cry, darling! Here, let your Lizzy find you a pretty handkerchief.”

The woman reached down to that brocade bag that she had been carrying — I could just about see that in what was left of the light. With those pale, thin, bony hands, she undid the velvet ribbon. And then she opened up the bag.

And here is the part of the story that I know, however I try, I will never be able to make anyone properly understand.

As the woman opened the bag, I was overcome by the most terrible wave of sadness I have ever known in my entire life. I don’t mean that I simply felt sad. I really don’t mean that. No, there was a genuine physicality to it — truly, as if I were standing in shallow water and all of a sudden a wave came along and knocked me flat — only the wave was made up out of every bit of longing, loneliness, sorrow, regret, shame, grief and total human despair that had ever existed. It was as if the sort of armour that protects people from all that sort of thing was suddenly, painfully, stripped away from me — as if there were literally nothing else in the world but sadness and loss.

It was, in short, the most terrible thing I have known in all my years. I could feel, all too clearly, as if the weight of this sadness were starting to crush the life out of my body — as if it had already started to crush whatever was left of my soul.

I had fallen over on the bench by then, and was gasping for breath, clutching the side of the seat, unable to move away, to speak, even to form coherent thoughts.

“Oh, I’m sorry, I’m so sorry!” I heard the woman say. “I always forget! No wonder my Robert calls me a foolish woman. I’m so sorry, darling!” And she was fumbling to close up the bag again, to tie up the ribbon.

Then another voice — a male one. “Is he okay?”

“Oh, he’s fine, darling, only he’s been waiting ever such a long time for her — she’s been a long time in coming.”

“You don’t want me to ring the police or nothing?”

“Oh no, he’ll be fine.”

With enormous effort, I managed to sit up properly again. I could just about see a couple of young zombies standing in front of me, caked in dried blood and oozing sores, looking concerned. “You okay, mate?”

“Thanks, I’m fine,” I said, although I was conscious that my voice sounded all wrong. “I just had a bit of a funny turn. I’m better now.”

“Well, all right, then,” said one of the zombies, a bit doubtfully. “Like, stay safe, okay, mate?” And with that, they left.

I rose, slowly and painfully, to follow them. But first, I turned back towards the woman, who was still looking at me. “I hope he turns up soon, your Robert,” I said. “You’re — you’re a kind soul, Lizzy. You deserve better. I’m sorry you’ve had to wait so long.”

“Never you mind,” said the woman, evenly. “Only if you meet him on your way, my Robert, can you tell him that his Lizzy is here, in Golden Square, waiting up for him? Oh, I know all about that Mary of his, don’t you doubt that, I know all how he’s wronged me — men are like that — but I don’t care. One day, he’ll come back. And until then, I’ll just wait.”

***

It gets dark quite early at the end of October. Fortunately, the main door of the Warwick Street chapel was still open.

There, at least, very little had changed. The candles still guttered, so that the gold-ground mosaic in the apse glittered and sparkled and shimmered. The air still smelled of incense. It was very quiet there, too, after the clamour of the streets outside.

I sat down in a pew — but then, on an impulse, knelt instead. And then I prayed for a while, fervently if not very coherently. I was out of practice. Still, perhaps it did some good.

I had thought I was alone there. When I rose, though, and was starting to leave, I could see that near the front of the church, a youngish woman was also kneeling, arms thrown across the back of the seat in front of her. It was hard to tell whether she was praying very passionately, or perhaps just sleeping a bit between a day job and a night job. I went out, closing the door silently so as not to wait her, into the loud amoral chaos of the Hallowe’en crowds, the timeless, callous, unchanging turbulence of the West End.

***

Sam rang me up later that night, once I was back home in Fulham with Annie.

We’d had dinner and a couple of glasses of rosé, and were watching some familiar box-set — it doesn’t matter which. The room was warm, cosy — very ordinary. A dog or two snored on the sofa alongside us. I was amazed, reflecting on it, at the speed and thoroughness with which the world had come to seem almost normal again.

“Happy Hallowe’en! Thanks for the photos. I owe you one, Olly — they’re perfect. That light! I don’t know how you do it. You really haven’t lost your touch. I only hope the photos don’t distract readers from the brilliant incisiveness of my prose, or the unparallelled scope and originality of my research.”

To change the subject, I took the conversation in a different direction. “I should have asked this earlier, really, but what’s the deal with Golden Square? I know history isn’t my thing, but I can’t see the connection with Scotland and Legacies of Empire, or whatever you’re calling it now.”

Sam paused for a moment, in the way of someone who knows a great deal hence becomes wholly inarticulate when asked to condense it. “It’s a sad story, really. Also, it’s not even that central to the theme of the book —”

“Now you tell me ….”

“Oh, but some stories are just too good to leave out! There’s only so many pages of imperial trade statistics and so forth that anyone can bear — everyone loves a little shot of human interest now and then.”

“Sentimental freak.”

“Yeah, that’s me.

“So, anyway, here’s the story, since you asked. Once upon a time, there was a really horrible man called Robert Cunyngham. He started out in Ayrshire — a penniless orphan, from a gentry family that was ruined in the Civil Wars. He left for the Caribbean in his early teens. There, he married a very rich woman and managed to make a fortune in the sugar, with a sideline in the slave trade. When he was almost 50 years old, he came to London to deal with a law suit. He took rooms in King Street — which is now Kingly Street — and, later, he had a house in Golden Square.”

“That doesn’t seem the saddest story I’ve ever heard.”

“It’s the way I tell them. Seriously, though, there’s more.

“When Robert was in London, he met a girl named Elizabeth. She lived in the same lodging house. She was young enough to be his daughter.

“Different people tell this story different ways, but one way or the other — willingly or not; it’s a pretty unpleasant business — she ended up as his mistress. He seems to have promised her that when his wife died, he’d marry her.

“Well, eventually his wife died, and at that point, there may or may not have been some sort of semi-clandestine marriage contracted between Robert and Elizabeth. Once again, it’s a real “he said, she said” nightmare.

“What clearly did happen, though, is that after they were together for about fifteen years, an even younger woman — Mary — spotted an opportunity. She’s been a sort of rackety camp-follower, vaguely attached to an army officer who dumped her the moment he was able to marry a very wealthy, well-connected widow. So Mary, who seems to have been pretty cynical herself, got her talons into onto Robert. She convinced him to leave Elizabeth, move back to Scotland, to live rather grandly there, and also — unfortunately — to marry her.

“Robert was, at that point, possibly senile, but certainly very unwell. Elizabeth wrote him letters that are painful to read. She must have been relatively well educated, because she wrote the letters herself — and believe me, they are real, raw shrieks of pain — just horrible, even three centuries on.”

My cold was clearly getting worse because when I tried to speak, it took a few tries before the words came out. “Ah, okay, that’s sad.”

“You all right? You sound awful, Ollie.”

“Yeah, I know — it’s just a bad cold. What — what happened to Elizabeth?”

“No one knows, really. After Robert died, there was litigation about the various marriages — that’s why there’s a record of all this — but as Mary could afford the better legal support, unsurprisingly, Mary ended up with all Robert’s money. Elizabeth ended up with nothing. And after that ….”

“What happened to her?”

“I’m getting to that. See, the problem is that she had a very ordinary name, and we’re not even sure of her date of birth, so basically it’s “choose your own adventure” time when looking at the records.”

“What do you mean?”

“Are you sure you’re okay? I mean that there are various Elizabeths who might or might not have been “our” Elizabeth. One had a happy ending — she married a well-to-do gentleman and seems to have lived a very calm life after that.”

“And the others?”

“Well, there are several others, so we can’t really know. But one of them, certainly, died in a rented room south of St James’s Park, down near what’s now Victoria Street, very poor, all alone — and she died by her own hand.”

We were both silent for a moment, until it became embarrassing.

It was Sam who broke the silence. “It’s strange, I know, because it’s not even the only time Golden Square was associated with that sort of thing. It has form.”

“Does it?”

“Seriously, Ollie, are you okay? I’m feeling bad about having sent you out taking photos — it doesn’t sound as if it did you much good.”

“Yeah, it’s just this stupid cold. What do you mean about Golden Square?”

“Only that it’s where Thomas de Quincey basically dumped his girlfriend — it’s in his memoirs. He told her that when he made some money, he’d come back and find her, and they could be married and live happily ever after — but of course, he didn’t.”

“Bastard. Now that’s a sad story.”

“Yes, and it’s funny it happens in exactly the same place.

“But then when you think of it, there have been so many lives lived in London. It’s like cart tracks, isn’t it? The first few carts follow the same path, almost by accident — then after a century or two, the tracks made by the wheels are so deep that it’s almost as if they have no choice.”

I must have stayed silent for a little too long, yet again, because, once more, it was Sam who spoke.

“I’ll tell you another thing, too, about Golden Square. You won’t believe this, but apparently there was a plague pit there, during the Great Plague of London. People quote ridiculous statistics about how many people were chucked into that pit — thousands and thousands — but in any event there clearly was, truly, a plague pit there. That was why the developers never built over it. Apparently, no one wanted to live in houses built over thousands of dead people.

“Unfortunately, though, there isn’t really scope to mention that in the book. I just thought, well — I just thought it was sort of interesting.”

The Scarecrow

The Scarecrow? Well, therein lies a tale! Perhaps it’s best that I simply tell you all the facts, such as they are, and let you draw your own conclusions.  

Jeremy and the twins invited themselves to stay up at Pagets for a few weeks. Had I told you they’d moved back to Pimlico? After Jenny died, I was hardly using the London place — maybe two or three times a year at absolute most — so when Jeremy was offered the new job, he and Mai decided that the time had come to bid sayonara to old Tokyo. 

The twins had just celebrated their fourth birthdays, so it wasn’t too late to swap school systems. Also, young children are hugely resilient, aren’t they? They thrive on change. They aren’t set in their ways like the rest of us miserable old reactionaries. 

All that was left to do, anyway, was for Mai to tidy up a few loose ends in Japan, while Jeremy made a start on sorting out the Pimlico digs with the twins in tow. 

Late-summer London, however, was hot and airless — especially so, one assumes, for little ones accustomed to ultra-modern, high-rise flats. I suspect they’d lived their whole lives amid artificial air conditioning — a noisy, charmless, soul-destroying abomination, if you ask me! — not that you did. Meanwhile the Pimlico flat had been taken over by a local firm of builders, along with their power tools, radios and nonstop cheeky-chappie banter. It was all too much. 

Hence the improvised sojourn with Grandpa amid the quieter charms of the twins’ ancestral rural Norfolk. 

It had been a while. When I’d last seen the twins — Jeremy, as you’ll recall, had offered them up as a sort of peace-offering to a dying if still alertly aware, acid-tongued Jenny — they were hardly more than two interchangeable bundles of life, sporting wild crests of raven-black glossy hair, mostly distinguishable by the differently-coloured dummies, one pink and one blue, permanently lodged within their chubby little faces. Jenny disapproved of dummies — just as she disapproved of Mai, Japan, Jeremy’s career changes and quite a lot else that came her way — but, for once, said nothing. Perhaps she had finally realised that there was, at that point, very little more to be said. 

That, though, is bye-the-bye. I had better get on with the story — in particular, how the Scarecrow got mixed up with it all. 

August was almost at an end. The three of them rolled up, after various delays, mid-afternoon, in Jeremy’s little car — Jeremy, Ren and a reluctant, sleepy Kitty who had to be prised out of the car like a clam from its enveloping shell. 

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Robert Cunyngham and Elizabeth Arnold in Crowland

One of the best things about having any kind of relationship with an old house — seeing it, visiting it, living in it, owning it — is the chance to image other lives that have also, over the years, passed through it. Better still, of course — although, admittedly, it isn’t always possible — is the opportunity to feed that imaginative exercise with scraps of historical narrative.

Who lived here? Why did they live here? What did they do when they were here? What did they eat, drink, read? How did they pass the time?

Very often, research is better at generating such questions than it is at answering them. Still, each little tiny bit of the puzzle, somehow salvaged from the destructive torrent of those intervening years or centuries, helps to create a slightly more legible picture, a slightly more audible tune.

If we are very fortunate indeed, we may even be able to catch the odd glimpse of some long-ago drama, enacted here, in this very place, amid what is at least semi-recognisable scenery. We may not understand it clearly, we may miss or misunderstand a great deal of what is going on — but once we have encountered it, perhaps it becomes that little bit easier to spot, out of the corner of our eye, in the dark spot under the stairs or at the top of the landing, the shadow of one of the protagonists, or to hear another voice joining in, just for an instant, with some ordinary, everyday, easily-forgotten conversation.

Between 1725 and 1727, Robert Cunyngham and Elizabeth Arnold both lived at the Manor House in Crowland, Lincolnshire. They remained there for a total of about sixteen months. They were there at the request of Robert Hunter, former governor of New York and New Jersey, and future governor of Jamaica, who also lived there for part of that time.

Here, then, in PDF form, is a very rough draft of their story.

I took the time to try to learn about these three people because the house in which they lived is now my house, and so, in a sense, their stories — and the stories of those around them — are now my business, too.

I will continue to update the link above, as the draft text becomes more polished. The references, in particular, are not yet complete. They will improve. The PDF format, incidentally, seemed the best answer to the eternal problem of how to show footnotes on a WordPress site.

It seemed better, though, to post an awkward imperfect version of what happened at the Manor House, and how and why it happened, than not to post it at all.

I hope, then, that you will all enjoy this very double-edged, sometimes paradoxical, real-life early Georgian diversion.

This is Godfrey Kneller’s portrait of Brig General Robert Hunter, former governor of New York and New Jersey, and future governor of Jamaica. He, too, lived in the Manor House at Crowland.

Pilgrimage

“You argue by results, as this world does
To settle if an act be good or bad.” 

TS Eliot, Murder in the Cathedral (1935)

For three nights in a row, Agnes dreamed the same dream. 

On the morning after that third night, she washed her face, put on her best red damask gown, fresh linen and also a hood in the new fashion, and went to see the parson.

Sir John rarely visited the village, a wealthy little port on the Norfolk coast. His other livings — there were perhaps half a dozen of these now — were all better situated — closer to the places frequented by mighty men and their wives. Nevertheless, he happened to be in residence at the moment, dealing with a lawsuit, an unreliable bailiff and contested tithes. So it was that Agnes found him there in the parsonage, enthroned at the high end of the hall, holding court as members of his flock, more or less welcome, offered up to him and his secretary their complaints, petitions and grievances.

The parson’s eyes lit up when he noticed Agnes at the far end of the room. Somehow the crowd of people — friends, neighbours, relations — parted before her, so that within a few moments she was standing in front of the parson, who looked her up and down, rose, and, almost before she knew it, had shepherded her into the parlour beyond. 

“Ah, Mistress Wright, we must speak about that husband of yours, and the roof of this, my poor parsonage house, and why it lets in the rain!” he declaimed, loudly, as he shut the door, for the benefit of those waiting outside.

The two stood alone for a moment, regarding one another. Each thought the other had aged a little. This was, of course, true. All the same, there was a kind of agreement between them, even a sort of familiar warmth, which they enjoyed in silence for a moment.

“Why are you here, Agnes? I trust Valentine keeps well?”

“Oh yes, the fits have passed entirely these last few months. I think Hubert sent you word of him? Valentine is like any other six-year old child now, God be praised.”

“God be praised,” agreed the parson, his dark eyes shining, unable to look away from the woman who stood before him.

“And that is why I must go to St Thomas, the blessed martyr, to give him thanks.”

Here the parson sighed, laughed mirthlessly, shook his head, and started to pace around the room. 

“You are a foolish headstrong woman, Agnes. If you want to thank St Thomas, why not thank him here? Your husband is an officer of St Thomas’ own altar gild, here in this parish, for heaven’s sake! Also, why are you so certain it’s St Thomas you should thank? Why not Withburga or Walstan? Or Felix? Or Our Lady of Walsingham, as far as that goes — although if you wish to bother her yet again, I’d advise you, in all confidence, to do so sooner rather than later? 

“No, Agnes, you’ve troubled every saint between here and the German Ocean and some besides with Valentine and his business. I have no time for a theology lecture this morning, my sweetheart, my darling, but you also know very well that the grace that healed Valentine — assuming that it was Becket that healed him, which seems debatable to me — flows ultimately from our Lord. You really needn’t travel all the way down to Canterbury — unless you simply want a holiday from Master Wright, which I could well imagine. 

“Speaking of which, send him to me, won’t you? I wasn’t entirely in jest when I spoke at the door. The roof over the curate’s room is letting in water every time it rains here. He complains of it endlessly. They are very wearisome to me, the curate’s eloquent, unanswerable complaints. And the floor in the buttery is always wet.”

Agnes simply looked at the parson, who eventually stopped pacing about.

“Agnes, my dearest, my heart, don’t go to Canterbury. Not now.”

“I must go.” Calmly, she told the parson about the dream.

“Oh, very well then. I suppose you want some money for the journey?”

“No, I need no money, thank you,” she replied. “My husband has enough. We’ve done well these past few years. God has been merciful to us. I am only here to seek your blessing.”

“And what will you do about Valentine while you are away?” the parson asked. “Will you leave him with your sister?”

“No, I will take him with me,” Agnes replied. “He must thank St Thomas too! He’s well enough now. Valentine and I will go together.”

So the parson, formally and in Latin — although they were already in a season when Latin prayers had fallen out of favour — offered Agnes his blessing. Then, as she had known he would, rather gently at first — later rather less so — he folded her into his arms and began to kiss her. 

Sir John smelled of oranges and cloves, civet and vetiver. The marten fur of his robe was very soft.

*           *           *

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Frank Auerbach: in memoriam

British painter Frank Auerbach has died, at the age of 93 years.

Whatever else they may have been, Auerbach’s pictures were never easy — easy to make, or easy to love. Effort was demanded on both sides. 

First impressions of his work — on the part of critics and, indeed, the rest of us — often focused on the superficial. Auerbach’s paint could be almost ludicrously thick, his brushstrokes crude, the resulting accretions of pigment apparently messy, hard to read — rebarbative. 

And yet, the longer one engaged with those violently rubbed-out charcoal drawings, those wildly stabbing orthogonals, the grossly clotted or savagely scraped-back surfaces of the paintings, the more they tended to offer in return. 

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A Doubtful Attribution

On that afternoon when I first learned of Lucinda’s death, it was as if some sort of filter had fallen between me and the rest of the world.

The bright September sunlight was suddenly dim, irresolute. The shadows lost their crisp autumn rigour. They became almost apologetic. When, on a whim, I went to the edge of our garden, from which one could just about glimpse the distant chimneys of the large house in which Lucinda had lived (“and, indeed, in which she had died — where she’s probably lying dead even now” the unhelpful voice inside my head stipulated), the battered corn-stubble, which at lunchtime had look as if it were picked out in purest old gold, was dun-coloured, dull — devoid even of its habitual population of gleaning rooks and wood-pigeons. 

One lumpy little cloud hung pointlessly in the sky. I found myself disliking it, because it added nothing to the scene and looked wrong there. How ridiculous to dislike a cloud! Almost as ridiculous, in its way, as disliking death, although most of us do that all the same.

 It’s not as if, I should perhaps add right away, I had known Lucinda terribly well — not as if we were the closest of friends. We were certainly not. 

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The Lammas Ghosts: now available in print

For several years now, I’ve shared examples of my short fiction here on this website.

Today, though, sees the start of something new — the publication of The Lammas Ghosts, a collection of fifteen of my own original, Norfolk-based short stories in printed form. You can find out more here.

For me, ghost stories have, first and foremost, been a way of talking about two specific places — often, the North Norfolk coast, and later occasionally the Marshland area, just to the south and southwest of King’s Lynn. They’re what happens when history, topography, folklore and errant day-dreaming run up against the dry stuff of everyday life, fizzing over into uncanny narrative.

Sometimes, the stories give voice to the very real anxieties and frustrations of life in these places. At other points, I hope they evoke the beauty and magic of localities that have, even now, by no means lost their distinctiveness.

Mostly, though, they convey a real truth about East Anglia — that it’s a place where the past is always present, unfailingly ready to leap out and surprise us just when we least expect it — but perhaps also when we need it most.

You can order The Lammas Ghosts here.

Naming names: in search of Martha Moore

This is not a ghost story, at least not in any normal sense of that term. Nor is it much of a history. It answers no important questions. Nor does it make a satisfying progress from A to C, stopping smartly upon arrival, with B folded neatly into the middle.

Instead, what follows is an attempt to know something about a woman who bore the name Martha Moore. She was born in 1603 and died in 1669. She lived in various places, including but not limited to Norfolk. 

I can tell you now that her story is not a remarkable one. She interests me, for various reasons, but I know for a fact that others find this sort of thing infinitely tedious. They may well be correct.

A few years ago, I wrote a story in which someone very like her plays a central role, which you can read here. 

Yet because Martha Moore interests me, I have continued, ever since, to find out all I could about her — and, having done so, it seemed wrong simply to close away my notes, such as they were, forever. To quote (as I’m well aware that I do far too often) a favourite passage from an essay by one of Martha Moore’s near-contemporaries, Sir Thomas Browne, in his Hydriotaphia: Urn-Burial; or, a Discourse of the Sepulchral Urns Lately Found in Norfolk,

We were hinted by the occasion, not catched the opportunity to write of old things, or intrude upon the antiquary. We are coldly drawn unto discourses of antiquities, who have scarce time before us to comprehend new things, or make out learned novelties. But seeing they arose, as they lay almost in silence among us, at least in short account suddenly passed over, we were very unwilling they should die again, and be buried twice among us.

This is exactly what I feel about the various scattered fragments I’ve gathered together while looking for Martha Moore. 

Here, then, for what it’s worth, is an attempt to piece together her story. 

* * *

Let us consider the parish church of Wiggenhall St Germans, a little village four miles south of the port of King’s Lynn. 

Wiggenhall St Germans is in Norfolk, but it straddles the Great Ouse, a large and at that point strongly tidal river. West of the Great Ouse are the parishes of Freebridge Marshland. The “free bridge” stood, and stands, in Wiggenhall St Germans — unlike the ferry service that also conveyed people across the river from at least the 13th century onward, there was, at least at an early point, no charge for it. 

Marshland, in turn, was previously a vast, flat, mysterious realm of what might were they not saline, casually be termed fens. Reclaimed by drainage projects in the 17th century, the area is now composed mostly of arable farms and nondescript hamlets. 

Until the 1950s, Marshland flooded frequently and catastrophically. Perhaps it will again. 

The parish church of Wiggenhall St Germans, with its graceful little tower and decayed brick porch, perches just east of the river bank, a good eight feet or so below the normal high tide mark of the river. 

Although located in Norfolk, it’s part of the diocese of Ely. As with most Church of England churches in the area, it’s the community’s deep memory expressed in physical form: a pleasingly unconsidered jumble of absolutely first-rate late medieval bench ends, stairs winding up towards a rood loft that hasn’t existed for almost half a millennium, raunchy mass-market paperbacks sold four-for-£1 in aid of the church fabric, and a light-soaked chapel where veneration of St Thomas of Canterbury has now given way to a pragmatic little galley kitchen suitable for sustaining long meetings on the part of the PCC. This is a village that used to be extremely prosperous and rather self-important, but that is now peripheral, friendly and, often, apparently slightly sleepy. I don’t get the sense that anyone minds this very much. 

We will pass by the book stall, the table carefully stocked with informative leaflets, those bench ends with their entirely recognisable depictions of the Seven Deadly Sins enacted in the gaping mouths of large fish, and — as the PCC meeting commences in the chapel next door — make our way into the relative dark of the chancel. 

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Some thoughts on the chancel at St Nicholas, Blakeney

The enshrining of historical ‘facts’ is a curious business. 

It is generally believed these days — by all sorts of people, which is to say, those who know very little about the Norfolk village of Blakeney and those who know quite a lot — that the chancel of the church of St Nicholas was built and used by the Carmelite friars who were at that time established in our village. This explains why the chancel and nave appear unrelated, why the standard of work in the chancel is so good, even why the priests’ door faces northward. But when pressed for additional details, silence descends. In truth, the case for Carmelite involvement with the chancel makes very little sense, isn’t supported by the evidence, and is almost certainly wrong. 

My purpose here is to spell out why the Carmelite explanation doesn’t really work, and also to provide what seems to me a far more likely alternative backstory for the chancel at St Nicholas, Blakeney. 

St Nicholas, Blakeney as seen from the east

The origins of the Carmelite theory

Let’s look first, though, at how the Carmelite story got started. 

The first evidence I have seen for this line of argument appears in the Blakeney church guide prepared in 1954 by the Rev. C. L. S. Linnell, incumbent of the nearby parish of Lethringsett. In this he acknowledges help from, inter alia, John Page ARIBA, architect of Blakeney’s newer rectory, built in 1924 and demolished in 2019, all which tells us something about Blakeney’s unsentimental attitude towards its own ecclesiastical heritage.

The Rev. Charles Laurence Scruton Linnell, for his part, was no casual clerical scribbler.

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The reformation of Langham, Norfolk: notes regarding an enigmatic object of devotion, a church that vanished, and the so-called “Langham Madonna”

 In 1086, when the Domesday Book was composed, what is now the little village of Langham in Norfolk — in our own time, a small place of fewer than 400 souls — already had two churches. These two churches stood only about 300 meters distant from each other. Langham had long been divided into two main manors, which probably explains the two churches and their foundation well before the date of the Conquest. 

One of these churches — St Andrew, associated with the manor variously called Langham Magna, Langham Episcopi or Langham Bishop — still exists today, under the dedication St Andrew & St Mary. The building stands on a little ridge at the centre of the present-day village, with the land sloping away to the sea to the north, towards a little stream to the south. The other — St Mary, associated with Langham Parva — was located a short distance down the road towards Binham, apparently always outside the main settlement. It was probably the fact of this ridge and the road running along it that gave the village its unremarkable name, shared with parishes in Essex, Suffolk, Rutland and Dorset. 

Yet St Mary disappears from the records at some point between the creation of the Valor Ecclesiasticus of 1535, where it features, and the national inventory of church goods of 1552, where it does not. 

What happened? Of these two churches, St Andrew seems always to have been the more prominent. By the twelfth century it was a vicarage, under the control of the bishop of Norwich. The bishop also had a “palace” in the parish, to the west of the road to Field Dalling alongside what is now known as the Ford, which may — if one accepts local opinion on these things — have previously been the site of a Roman villa. Certainly Roman material has been found at the site. Meanwhile part of the flooded moat of the bishop’s palace is still visible, set in a damp sort of meadow with horses grazing nearby and some working farm buildings immediately next to it. (Peter Tolhurst, Norfolk Parish Treasures: North and West Norfolk, Black Dog Books (2014), p. 91.) 

The ecclesiastical taxation of 1291-92 assessed the bishop’s church, St Andrew, at £3 10s 0d. St Mary, in contrast, where Sir John Cokefield, a layman, was patron, was only worth at 10s. (See here) As for the Valor Ecclesiasticus of 1535, it assessed the value of St Andrew at £4 11s 8d per annum, while St Mary was worth £3 10s 5d. These were, incidentally, both relatively poor livings by wealthy north Norfolk standards. The Valor Ecclesiasticus assessed neighbouring Blakeney, for instance, as worth a clear £27 13s 4d per annum. But then Blakeney was, at the time, one of a trio of thriving Glaven ports, while Langham remained, as it always has been, primarily agricultural. 

For a small village, Langham St Andrew is an impressive church. The current structure was (re)built in flint in the fourteenth century, then enlarged and enriched throughout the course of the fifteenth century, with major restoration campaigns in 1868, 1900, 1906, the mid 1980s and doubtless at other times as well. From the tall tower with its late fifteenth century crenelated parapet, on the right sort of day, one can, allegedly, see all the way to Norwich. There is a general feeling, expressed by Pevsner among others, that the 1868 renovation left the church looking “lifeless”, but this seems unkind to me. On a bright spring morning, when the snowdrops are in bloom and the sunlight catches the flintwork and the old render, it’s a wholly delightful, atmospheric place, both inside and out. 

Langham St Andrew, as seen from the road running from the direction of Blakeney towards Binham and Walsingham

But let us consider, for a moment, the interior of the church. One of its most striking features of St Andrew these days is its bold asymmetry. While the nave has a south aisle complete with a chapel at the end, there is no north aisle whatsoever. What there is, however, is a strange, slightly wonky filled-in arch, larger than a normal doorway, in the north wall, just east of the present entrance. On the outside, meanwhile, someone has scored into the (1980s?) render the outline of a roofline, and then a door within that. Pevsner thought that the “mysterious, shapeless” arch might signal the existence of a vanished chapel. (Nikolaus Pevsner and Bill Wilson, Norfolk I: Norwich and North-East, Yale University Press (2002) p. 584.) 

Such “missing” portions of medieval churches are, of course, more usual than otherwise. The parish next door, Cockthorpe, had its chancel shortened, probably in the seventeenth century, and has blocked-up south-facing wall openings. The church of Cley-next-the-Sea, in its current form built during the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, straddling as it did so the trauma of the Black Death, now has both its massive, ornate transepts blocked off — indeed, it’s possible that this may have happened soon after they were built, well before the reformation, due to the loss of a third or more of the local parishioners. And as we’ve seen, St Mary’s Langham vanished altogether. 

The filled-in arch on the north wall of Langham St Andrew
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About the Wheelers: in search of my father’s family

[The following is yet another family history essay. It has no connection with Norfolk, although it does contain a story about a witch. I doubt it will interest anyone other than my close relatives, but I am posting it here in case it might be of use to someone who shares some of my father’s lineage.]

My parents divorced when I was in my early teens. Far from being saddened by this, I was delighted. There must have been a point where the two of them enjoyed each other’s company, but if so, it had taken place long prior to my birth. Trapped in a conflict where neutrality wasn’t an option, I sided with my mother, although we later fell out very badly indeed. 

This is why most of what I ever knew about my father — about his earlier life, his family background, about the sort of person he was — came to me by way of my mother, who by that point was consistently negative about him. 

My mother had previously parted company with the rest of her family, comprising her brother and half-sister, as well as their offspring, over the terms of my maternal grandmother’s will. As this happened when I was still very young, almost everything that I knew about her side of the family also came to me via her own narrative framing. And then when she duly fell out with me, when I was in my 20s, she made it clear that I was no longer a member of the family — that I was not only a disappointment to her, but also to the many generations of my forebears, too.

So it was that when I first dipped a tentative toe into genealogical research last year, the whole project felt disloyal, transgressive — taboo. It has taken me months to get remotely comfortable with it. At times, the emotions it threw up were surprisingly raw. 

Yet at other times, the longer perspectives of historical time brought seemed to encourage a strange sort of healing. If those around me didn’t always understand the value of collecting long and gappy lists of largely unremarkable dead relatives, it’s probably because this healing process wasn’t something they themselves wanted or needed. 

Of all the challenging moments of this journey, though, perhaps the most difficult were those involving my father, who died in 2006. Here was a man I’d last seen at some long-forgotten court hearing over visitation rights and child-support payments — the almost mythical antihero of my early life. I’d tried to banish him from my memory, and had almost succeeded. Now I was going in search of him. 

This is his family story, which is also my family story. 

* * *

My father, Charles Lovelace Wheeler, was born in 1925 in rural Kentucky. “Lovelace” is, by the way, pronounced “Loveless” — in the late nineteenth century, even literate Wheelers were quite capable of spelling it “Lovlis” in family Bibles. He was the eldest of eight children — seven brothers and one sister. His parents were farming people, although I’ve been told that in the depths of the Great Depression, his father also ran the backwoods equivalent of a corner shop. 

His childhood was, I think, spent at Talley’s farm, Hammonville, Hart County. Even now, judging from a cursory visit via Google Maps, the area is very rural — flat land, not all of which has even now been cleared, cut through by meandering streams — “creeks”, I guess — and studded with Baptist churches. To this day, Hart County is a “dry” county. There are places with barely-credible names like “Barefoot Hollow”, “International Harvester Road” and “Lion’s Den”. Fort Knox, next to which the US gold reserves used to be housed, is nearby — a testament to the remoteness of the place. 

While naturally very beautiful, it would be fair to say that Hart County is neither a very wealthy area, nor a very ethnically diverse one. Yet it’s a place in which my father had deep roots. He must have grown up knowing that one local road, “Wheeler Road”, was named after his father’s family, while two others were named for his mother’s Talley lineage. He must have known that his family, both material and paternal, had been amongst the earliest founders of this little community. 

For the sake of simplicity, though, at least for the moment, let us pursue only my father’s direct patrilineal ancestry. First, how did the Wheelers end up in Hart County, Kentucky? 

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On Britten’s “Gloriana” at the ENO

It was a great treat to see one of Benjamin Britten’s least-performed operas, Gloriana, at the ENO last night. The production, taking place on one night only, was a special tribute to her late majesty Queen Elizabeth II. 

The tribute was very fitting. Gloriana (op. 53) was composed by Britten in 1952, to a libretto by William Plomer, to serve as part of the late Queen’s coronation festivities. The first public performance took place at the Royal Opera House in front of the youthful Queen, accompanied by members of the royal family and assorted dignitaries including the Queen of Tonga and Jawaharlal Nehru, only six days after the coronation. The sets and costumes had been designed by John Piper. The opera included plenty of Merry Olde England type dancing, trumpets and a sad song notionally played on a lute, plus throngs of humorous fishwives and urchins. It must have been quite a spectacle.

It was also, famously, a failure. When one goes, these days, to read up on Gloriana, failure is the most famous thing about it. The critics, having adored Peter Grimes and fawned over Billy Budd, didn’t much care for Gloriana. Worse still, it came to be regarded as a matter of fact that the Queen and those around her didn’t like the opera either, which was, according to taste, either a token of their innate philistinism or a prickliness about how the monarch was depicted in Plomer’s text — and while there seems to be not the tiniest shred of evidence supporting this belief, when has that ever held people back from taking ill-informed views about the monarchy?

And so it was that Gloriana was consigned to the sad category of Britten’s lesser-known major works. True, it has been revived several times, to considerable success. A second production took place in 1966 at Sadler’s Wells Opera (the ENO’s predecessor); there were further productions in 1992, 1994 and 1999. Finally, in 2013 the Royal Opera House staged a single performance as part of the celebrations of the centenary of Britten’s birth. All the same — it is rare to spot this particular creature in the wild. All the more reason, then, to welcome the chance to see Gloriana on stage, and to judge for ourselves.

Directed by Ruth Knight, the ENO’s Gloriana was announced as a concert staging. In fact, the production turned out to be much less austere than those words imply. Of course, for a single performance, there’s a limit to what can or should be done in terms of costumes, sets, choreography. Still, with the clever use of projections onto a gauze screen, traditional late Tudor costumes and plenty of courtly bows and curtseys, Knight conjures up an atmosphere of shadows, uncertainty and performances that can’t always quite be trusted.

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On William Gale Breene

What follows is unlikely to be of interest to anyone who isn’t at the very least a cousin of mine, and indeed might not be very fascinating in that case, either. 

This has nothing to do with Norfolk, nor is it a ghost story. It’s family history, and not very good family history at that, because it’s more about what I couldn’t find than what I could. To the extent it posits any conclusions, these are entirely speculative and quite possibly incorrect. 

I should add, in case it isn’t obvious, that I’m not an expert on Irish or US history, that this is a casual blog post rather than a substantial and serious piece of research, that I can and will alter it without notice or compunction if new facts come to light, and that while I’m hugely grateful for the generous help and advice I received in the course of putting this all together, the mistakes — and I’m sure there are plenty — remain entirely my own.

The only reason, then, that I’m posting any of this here at all is that, having done the research that underpins what I’ve written, it seemed a bit wasteful not to make this material available in the unlikely event that someone, somewhere, might perhaps be able to derive some benefit from it. 

Finally, I am aware that I have not supplied footnotes. In truth, I do have these, in a working draft, but it is so hard to make them work on WordPress that I gave up. If, for some reason, you’re desperate for a reference, track me down and I’ll do the best I can to help.

Finding William Gale Breene

This is the story of my thrice great grandfather, William Gale Breene (1820-1896).

William Gale Breene’s life was not, as far as I know, any more remarkable than most lives are. All the same, he preoccupies me. In part, this is because he’s a problem for my sporadic attempts at cultivating a family tree. 

On more or less every other side of the family, I can trace my origins back into the early eighteenth century — and in many cases, far earlier than that. But with William Gale Breene, the trail stops dead. I have no idea who his parents were. I don’t even know the name of the town or village where his story started. And yet this was a man who was alive within the lifetimes of two of my own grandparents. He’s not some creature of the distant, mythic past — the world in which he died, at least, was not entirely unlike the one into which I was born. There is so much I cannot discover about him. Yet at the same time, there are points at which his life may well parallel my own. 

Anyway, this is my attempt to tell his story, in which there will be more silences than declarations, several strange digressions, many halting suggestions and few definitive answers.

Making a start

Where do we begin? The first piece of evidence that establishes the existence of William Gale Breene is a slightly unexpected one. In 1845, the American Colonisation Society, reporting on progress made on the purchase of land in Liberia, announced that between 22 October and 31 December 1844, they had received a donation from one W.G. Breene of Dayton Ohio to the value of 50 cents. The movement to send free black Americans to Liberia was opposed by abolitionists, by many black Americans, and even at the time was criticised as being possibly fraudulent, probably racist, and certainly supportive of slavery as an institution. By the 1840s it would have been obvious to most that the effect of supporting ‘repatriation’, as it was called, was anti-abolitionist — clearly so in a politically polarised state such as Ohio. So here we find William Gale Breene spending fifty cents on nailing his political colours firmly to a particularly discreditable mast.

More benign is the next record. Five years later, on 3 September 1849, two children were baptised at the Third Street Presbyterian Church in Dayton, Ohio: William Henry Breene and Martha Jane Breene. Martha Jane, known as Jennie, was to become my twice-great grandmother. The children’s parents were listed as W. G. and Margaret Breene. Their older sibling, Francis M. Breene, had been laid to rest at the Woodland Cemetery in Dayton on 20 April 1847, at the age of only three years. 

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The Lammas ghosts

‘It’s going to be a hard winter.’

There are few joys known to the Norfolk-born so profound as the joy of well-informed pessimism. The three of us were standing in the kitchen courtyard, looking ruefully at the hawthorn tree that grows in the centre, at the edge of the old dipping pool. Brian’s face, lean and wizened through a life lived largely in the open air, had a rapt look, mirrored exactly by that of his much younger cousin Benjamin, who was helping that day. 

‘The start of August, and the hawthorn haws gone red already — whoever heard of that?’ 

‘Well, it’s the lack of rain, isn’t it? Or the heat, maybe. It’s brought on the autumn early. The sloes in the hedge are so ripe that they’re falling, and the Michaelmas daisies have been out for weeks now.’ 

Brian and Benjamin listened politely to my contribution, but the little silence that followed was a reminder that although this was my kitchen courtyard, my old parsonage, my land, I was still an outsider, having only lived in the village for a dozen years or so, hence there was a great deal I didn’t know about the place — a great deal I didn’t know about, full stop. 

‘Well, it’s a strange old year, no doubt about that,’ said Brian, gently. ‘Best enjoy the sun while we can.’

Brian and Benjamin were there to help lift the pump out of our well. The pump engineer, who drove up from Norwich, had long ago learned that he needed an extra pair of hands, or maybe more, when dealing with our well, which was much older and deeper than most of the others around here. 

‘It’s near one hundred foot deep, your well’ he would say with gloomy relish. (He was Norfolk-born, too.) ‘Imagine being the poor sod who had to dig it out at the bottom, with someone else at the top hauling up the earth in a basket — that’s how they done it back then. Imagine being all that way down in the dark.’

‘Hope they thought to haul him up again at the end’ opined Benjamin, pleasantly. ‘Hope he ain’t still down there.’ 

‘Fancy goin’ down to have a look then, do you?’

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In search of Sarah Harvie

For those of us who feel compelled to imagine our own familiar places in past times, the release of the 1921 census data was inevitably an exciting day. Yet I doubted the new material would tell me much that I didn’t already know about my home, an old rectory in Blakeney, on the north coast of Norfolk. 

I knew, for example, that the incumbent at the time was the Rev Robert Gordon Roe, a Cambridge-educated, art-loving Anglo-Catholic who was rector from 1915-1923, so assumed that he would be living here with his wife, perhaps a child or two, and some servants. And indeed, so it proved. Two of his servants were members of the Gooch family, a name that looms large in the later history of the house — a pleasingly familiar note. 

Hence a flash of amazement and joyful discovery when I encountered the third of the live-in servants of the Roe family. The census return describes her thus: Sarah Harvie, aged 77 years and 6 months, female, single, born in Antigua in the West Indies — and also, in the language of the census, a ‘negress’. 

In recent years, historical and archaeological research has done much to alert us to the presence of black individuals in England, from at least Roman times to the more recent past. Norfolk is very much part of this story. Famously, a skull recovered from a 10th century burial at North Elmham in Norfolk has been identified as that of a young black woman. 

Blakeney is a coastal village, and until well into the nineteenth century it was still a port of some significance — not out on a limb geographically, as it to some extent is in our own automobile-dependent era, but instead connected by sea with a much wider world. So I have always assumed that there were black people visiting or living in Blakeney from time to time, whether as sailors, artisans, servants, enslaved people or something else entirely. Few records, after all, even where they exist, are as explicit about ethnicity as the is the 1921 census return mentioned above. So while I very much doubt that Sarah Harvie was the first black inhabitant of our village, the fact remains that she is the first about whom I, at least, have any specific information.

What, though, could I discover about Sarah Harvie, an elderly woman who lived in this house a century ago?

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Remembering Ralph Lowde

Between the years 1621 and 1639  the rector of Blakeney, a village on the north Norfolk coast, was a youngish yet very learned man named Ralph Lowde. As someone who now lives in the house once occupied by Ralph Lowde, I naturally wished to see what, if anything, four centuries on, I could discover about my predecessor. 

The most informative source for the early life of Ralph Lowde is the register of Gonville & Caius College, Cambridge. According to the register, Ralph was the son of Edmund Lowde, husbandman, of Aighton; he studied at Whalley School under Mr Browne; he matriculated at Emmanuel College in 1606 under Mr Walbanks, but migrated to Caius in October 1608 with William Branthwaite, Master. He took his BA in 1609/10, his MA in 1613, and the prestigious degree of BD in 1622. Finally, he served as a fellow of Caius from 1615 to 1622. 

What are we to make of this terse recitation of facts? 

Aighton is a hamlet in the parish of Mitton, five miles southwest of Clitheroe in the Ribble Valley. After the mid eighteenth century the area was to become notable as the location of the Jesuit foundation Stonyhurst College, but in the late sixteenth century it cannot have been more than a handful of modest buildings skirting the banks of a fast-flowing river.

To have started at Caius in 1608 at the age of 18, Ralph (sometimes Raphe or Radulphus) Lowde (sometimes Loud, Loude or Lowd) must have been born in about 1590. His father, Edmund, seems to have been a rather ordinary, middling sort of landowner. Dugdale’s Visitation of Lancashire (1664-5) would later record the family as being from Ridding, then Kirkham, and armigerous — the arms were argent, three bugle horns, sable, stringed, or — all of this presumably a play on the word ‘Loud’. But it was only during Ralph’s lifetime that the family entered the ranks of the gentry. 

Ralph spent four years studying at nearby Whalley Grammar School, a two-hour walk from his home. Before the reformation, the Cistercians at Whalley Abbey had offered educational opportunities for local boys. Afterwards, as early as the reign of Edward VI, a grammar school was founded — apparently in the upper room of a gatehouse formerly belonging to the abbey — to fill the gap. So when Ralph studied there, the school would have been at once rather old, yet also very obviously much changed over the previous generation or two. I have yet to find anything about ‘Mr Browne’, Loude’s schoolmaster. And if the school fit into the Whalley Abbey’s old gatehouse, it is hard to see how it could have educated more than a dozen or so pupils at any given time. But somehow in 1606, at the age of 16, Ralph was sent south to take up a place at Emmanuel College, Cambridge. 

The choice of Emmanuel College, at least, probably tells us something about Ralph’s education.

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A note on Sir Christopher Heydon and the Great Conjunction

Not much is left of one of my very favourite no-longer-extant neighbours, Sir Christopher Heydon of Baconsthorpe and Saxlingham in the county of Norfolk, who was born in 1561 and died at the start of 1623.

Heydon was the son and grandson of Norfolk landowners — the culmination of intermarried lines of ambitious lawyers and local political figures, in that sense not unlike the Townshends of Raynham or the Cokes of Holkham, except that in Sir Christopher’s case, the upward trajectory was due to receive a correction in the very near future.

Heydon studied first at Gresham’s School in Holt, and then at Peterhouse, Cambridge. As someone who lives in the Old Rectory, Blakeney, it’s quite striking to me that while Heydon matriculated at Peterhouse at Easter 1576, both James Calthorpe — another north Norfolk landowner and patron of the living at Blakeney — and James Poynter, soon to serve as the controversial incumbent at Blakeney and Wiveton 1584-1621 — matriculated at Cambridge (Trinity Hall and Corpus Christi, respectively) the year before, in Easter 1575. Cambridge wasn’t a big place then, so it’s hard to imagine these young men with their north Norfolk connections wouldn’t have known each other.

Heydon’s university education was presumably intended to equip him further to advance his family’s status in local and national politics, but for some reason, after he took his degree in 1578/9 at the age of 18, it’s reported that he ‘travelled widely on the continent’. Once he returned, he attempted a parliamentary career. It was not an immediate success. In 1586, he stood for the Norfolk county seat against another local gentleman and lost. His father Sir William Heydon, who must have been pretty influential at this point, somehow convinced the privy council to call a fresh poll, in which Heydon was duly elected. Unfortunately the House of Commons then embarked on a dispute with the privy council about its right to overturn electoral results, quashing the second poll result. In 1588, when there was another election, Heydon managed to win properly on the first try — but made little impact on the national scene, remaining more interested in travelling across continental Europe, where restless Englishmen could play out the era’s great doctrinal tensions in actual battlefield engagements. This seems to have suited Heydon, whose zeal for reformed religion was consistent throughout his life.

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Killing places

bootscraper

This is an iron boot-scraper. For the better part of a century, it stood outside the front door of a Church of England rectory in a Norfolk village perched on the cusp of the eastern England, a liminal place where a vastness of greyish-lavender salt marsh softens the edges of the North Sea.

The rectory sat on a hill above the rest of the village. Next to it was the late medieval ex-rectory it had superseded in 1924, and which its design consciously echoed. Across the way and slightly to the north, on the highest ground in the village, was the parish church, a 13th century building altered by major rebuilding campaigns in the 15th, 19th and early 20th centuries. Nearby were the old schoolhouse and the newer, early 19th century parish school with modest 20th century additions. Another neighbour was a house called Highfields, an ordinary Victorian farmhouse that had been enlarged and re-ordered in the 1930s by the same architect who built the rectory — a local man named John Page, who lived in or near the village for nearly all his long life. John Page had also worked on the older rectory, just as he would go on to work on many, perhaps even dozens of other houses and buildings in the village.

Anyone traveling to the village either from the nearby market town of Holt, or indeed from the fine cathedral city of Norwich, necessarily passed between these buildings. The rectory was, more or less, the southern-most building in the village. As such, its tall chimneys, sloping tiled roof and distinctive 1920s Queen Anne roofline provided visitors with their first impression of the place they were about to experience.

In 2016, however, the rector decided that the rectory in which she and her children had lived, apparently happily, for a few years was no longer required. The diocese agreed. In 2017, the ex-rectory was sold to private owners for £1m. After local objections that went all the way to the High Court, the necessary planning permissions were obtained.

And so it happened that a year ago today — 21 January 2019, at 3.14 in the afternoon — a lone hydraulic excavator tore down the central tall chimney of the rectory. As holes were smashed into the distinctive 1920s Queen Anne roof, throwing its red sand faced Hartshill rooftiles everywhere, a strangely sweet, fresh smell settled over the area. It was the resin, suddenly released from all those 1920s softwood battens, making contact with the sharp damp air of a winter evening on the north Norfolk coast.

The smell persisted for days. It was actually very pleasant, as long as one tried to forget the act of senseless, irreparable violence that had created it.

demolition
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Two Oaks, Kelling: the case for saving an ‘unremarkable’ interwar house

Two Oaks, Kelling

At present, the modest, interwar building shown above — Two Oaks, in the village of Kelling, Norfolk — is threatened with demolition. The planning application requesting demolition is here, on the website of North Norfolk District Council.

North Norfolk District Council has form for allowing the demolition of interwar buildings, including my own village’s New Rectory, an important early work from 1924 by local architect John Page.

I have, needless to say, sent a letter of objection to the NNDC’s Planning Committee, for their consideration, but in the interest of making the relevant case more widely, I reproduce my letter of objection below. (In the version below, I have also provided web links absent from the original document, as not all the enterprises mentioned, while presumably familiar to council members, will be known to the general public.)

___________

15 January 2020

To the Planning Committee of North Norfolk District Council

I write to object to PF/19/2071 — Demolition of detached dwelling and change of use of site to agricultural land.

Two Oaks, Kelling is an extremely attractive house, compact and pleasing in its simple symmetry. It is also richly evocative of the interwar period in which it was constructed, and of the wartime period which it survived intact. As such it should be preserved, renovated and cherished as an important part of the North Norfolk Coast’s built heritage.

North Norfolk sometimes makes much of its links with the Second World War. The Muckleburg Collection, established in 1988, is now visited by thousands each year. Langham Dome has received awards as a successful educational enterprise and tourist attraction. Private initiatives such as the successful Control Tower B&B in North Creake trade on nostalgia for interwar design as much as the desire to experience a site of wartime interest. North Norfolk Railway’s 1940s weekend goes from strength to strength — drawing thousands to the Holt/Sheringham area, offering everything from 1940s jazz to vintage vehicles, it is now one of the largest such events in the UK. At the other end of the spectrum, people from all over the world make private pilgrimages to visit the places where loved ones served, and sometimes died, amongst our Norfolk airfields and along our coast.

Yet those in charge of North Norfolk’s heritage can be casual to the point of negligence when it comes to preserving precious reminders of ‘the greatest generation’ and the world they inhabited. Astonishingly, seriously important 1920s and 1930s buildings — in good condition, often with their internal fixtures and fittings intact, sited prominently in their villages — are still demolished without question or comment.

This is not only grotesque on environmental grounds (the embodied carbon in these buildings means that their demolition is invariably far less ‘green’ than preservation and retrofitting would be) but also on historical ones. A building from the 1920s or 30s is clearly not ‘old’ in the sense that a building from the 1820s or 30s is — but if the younger building isn’t cherished and protected, then it will never have the chance to become old. In a century’s time, our descendants will scratch their heads and wonder why our generation did not fight harder to protect this part of their historical birthright.

Two Oaks may not be ‘remarkable’, in the sense that it is recognisably a normal interwar house, but it is certainly part of Kelling’s history. For some of its time it was apparently the village police house. And for many long decades, it has occupied a prominent position along the busy coast road. Its handsome silhouette is clearly visible, for instance, from Kelling’s War Memorial. And there is something poignant about this. How many troop carriers passed by this house? How many wartime aircraft overflew it? Did Churchill himself drive by on one of his various visits to the area? To anyone who knows or cares about 20th century buildings and happens to drive past Two Oaks today, all these questions are very pertinent. And they may matter even more to those passing by in 100 years, or in 500 years’ time.

There is, after all, a great deal more to North Norfolk’s history than the lazy cliché of flint-built, pantile-roofed fishermen’s cottages. At some level, local government takes account of this. The parish summary for Kelling on the ‘North Norfolk Heritage Explorer’ website expends two long paragraphs on still-extant wartime defensive structures and other built legacies of the Second World War including pillboxes, gun emplacements and anti-aircraft batteries. Increasingly, however, the public understands the history of that war not only through its explicitly military heritage, but also through reminders of the Home Front, civilian experience that underpinned and enabled it.

Two Oaks is very much a part of that Home Front history. In its modest way, it is a monument to Kelling’s wartime experience, and a reminder of that pivotal moment in our region’s history. To demolish Two Oaks is to show contempt, yet again, for the vanishing past, no less significant for being relatively recent.

Please insist on the preservation of Two Oaks, and please reject this planning application.

[Signed etc.]

On the Ben Uri Gallery

There is something distinctive and, yes, slightly thrilling about the sound made by an auction house catalogue being pushed awkwardly through the letter-box then falling, cushioned by its soft plastic envelope, onto the worn-out coir matting beneath. And indeed, this morning I was glad to discover a Sotheby’s catalogue arriving in just such a way.

It was only when I extracted the pleasingly bulky softback catalogue from its plastic that I felt a lurch of alarm.

The cover image was, surely, David Bomberg’s great [Woman] At The Window (1919). It’s a work that’s been in the Ben Uri collection since 1920. I last encountered it in the brilliant Bomberg show that took place earlier this year at Pallant House in Chichester, organised in conjunction with the Ben Uri Gallery. Read the rest of this entry »